Tuscan White Bean Recipe

TUSCAN BEANS

We tested this recipe in a traditional Italian terra-cotta bean pot (called a fagioliera) and in a heavy saucepan. We preferred the bean pot because it cooked the beans more gently, allowing them to retain their shape and texture (they seemed more flavorful as well). The slow, gentle cooking also makes it unnecessary to presoak the beans. In Italy, each serving of beans is dressed with oil at the table, and since leftover beans aren’t dressed, they are used in the next day’s soup or are reheated with more garlic and sage.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 3 3/4 hr
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2 1/2 cups dried white beans such as Great Northern or navy (1 lb), picked over and rinsed
10 cups water
2 fresh sage sprigs
1 bay leaf (not California)
1 head of garlic
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

Accompaniment: fine-quality extra-virgin olive oil (preferably Tuscan)

Special equipment: a 5-quart terra-cotta bean pot or heavy saucepan

If using a terra-cotta pot for the first time, soak it in water to cover at least 6 hours, then drain.

Put beans, water, sage, bay leaf, and whole head of garlic in bean pot. Cover and slowly bring to a simmer over low heat; this can take 2 3/4 hours in bean pot or 1 hour in saucepan.

Simmer beans until tender and soft but not mushy, about 45 minutes in bean pot or 35 to 40 minutes in saucepan. Remove from heat and cool beans, covered, 15 minutes. Stir in sea salt.

Drain almost all cooking liquid from beans (reserve for making soup if desired) and season beans with sea salt and pepper to taste.

Dress beans with oil at the table.

Cooks' notes:

• Willinger thinks dried beans are best when used within 1 year of harvest; it’s important to purchase them from a store that has high product turnover.

• Beans may be cooked 1 day ahead, cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered.